Why does the UIAA recommend HCR anchors?

 

Enemies on the walls

For several years, the UIAA has been warning the climbing community of the danger of some equipped routes where SCC (Stress Corrosion Cracking) occurs.

This warning is the result of the research of several climbing accidents in which the main cause was SCC corroded anchors.

These accidents took place in tropical marine areas where the environmental conditions accelerate corrosion and weaken classic anchors.

Following the relevant studies, it has been concluded that AISI 304 and 316 Stainless Steel alloys that had been used until now by the main manufacturers cannot support severe SCC.

The climbing community and the manufacturers have implemented measures to re-create the necessary safety conditions in the environment, so that we are only concerned about reaching our personal goals and enjoying our climb.

What areas have been potentially identified as having SCC?

 

Areas with danger of SCC

The combination of salt water + high humidity levels + heat creates the perfect environment for the quick development of SCC. Some of the most beautiful areas of the world have been included in the list of SCC classified areas for this reason, which is why SCC cannot stop climbers from enjoying these walls. In order to guarantee the safety of the ‘fanatic climbers’, these routes need to be re-equipped so they can be climbed safely.

FIXE has worked and continues to work on new anchors that guarantee the safety of these areas.

How to replace the affected anchors?

 

PLX HCR Anchors

FIXE has been working on improving their range of anchors with a high corrosion resistant (HCR) material in order to increase safety, in every sort of environment, including marine and corrosive ones, during a longer period of time.

This material has been specifically designed to improve stress corrosion cracking. It also presents superior characteristics compared to normal corrosion, mechanical resistance and the superficial wear of the popular 316L.

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