Alien X

WHAT IS THE ALIEN-X?

A spring-loaded climbing anchor.


HOW DOES THE ALIEN X COMPARE TO THE OTHER FRIENDS?

It is lighter and more flexible. Due to the soft aluminium and the geometry of the cams, good friction with the rock is achieved, which in turn provides more security. The first ALIEN was patented in 1986 in Colorado, USA. The current model represents the sixth generation and features 11 improvements compared to its predecessor, the ALIEN REVO. Some of them have the X-Grip texture of the cams or include the passive anchoring functionality in its three largest sizes.


WHERE IS THE ALIEN X MANUFACTURED?

In Sant Quirze de Besora, close to the Pyrenees. 


DO I HAVE TO GREASE MY ALIEN X?

Yes, it is necessary to lubricate it before its first use and during its lifespan. We recommend using WD-40. First, clean the Alien X with compressed air. Then apply oil onto the camshaft, opening and closing it several times. Finally, take off the excess oil with a cloth.


THE CAMS HAVE INDENTATIONS AND DO NOT CLOSE PROPERLY. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

The Alien X’s aluminium is very soft to improve its grip. As the grip increases, the security increases. If the cam has indentations, file down the aluminium that protrudes until its functionality is restored.


HOW DO I CLEAN THE CAMS?

With soap and water, then dry with a blow dryer or compressed air. Apply WD-40 immediately afterwards.


HOW DO I CLEAN THE COVER OF THE PULLER?

With a damp cloth, then dried.


CAN IT BE USED IN MARINE ENVIRONMENTS?

Yes, it can be used in marine environments. The device must be rinsed with fresh water after use, dried immediately and lubricated with WD-40.


ARE PRIOR TESTS CARRIED OUT DURING THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS?

Each batch manufactured is tried and tested to comply with the regulations and its functionality.


HOW DO I STORE THE ALIEN X IF I AM NOT GOING TO USE IT FOR 10 MONTHS?

Away from sunlight, in a cool, dry place. After each use it must be checked and, if necessary, cleaned and greased.


CAN MY ALIEN X BE REPAIRED?

Generally, if the problem is cam rotation, it can be solved by cleaning it and greasing it well. If the problem comes from a broken pin or other issues, please consult our technical service.


CAN I DIRECTLY ANCHOR A CARABINER TO THE ALIEN X IF IT GOES THROUGH THE DYNEEMA RING?

Yes, it can be anchored.


HOW TO PLACE THE ALIENS?

- Choose the right location to insert the ALIEN. Clean fissure or hole, with no cracks or weaknesses that could break the rock under load.

- Choose the ALIEN that fits the site best.

- They are directional floating anchors, they work in one direction. Position the ALIEN in the direction of the load it will or could receive.

- Position the ALIEN size that fits tightest to the site. Insert it as far as the handle.

- Check that the cams are well seated and that they work over their entire surface.

- Give a few strong, dry pulls in the direction of the load. If the ALIEN does not slip and remains well seated after the pulls, it is safe to assume that the ALIEN is in place.

- When placing an ALIEN in a horizontal position, the outer cams should be placed on the underside of the ALIEN. With some exceptions, where the morphology of the cams is such that they fit better in the opposite direction.

- When placing an ALIEN in a vertical position with one side of the rock protruding over the other, place the outer cams on the protruding side. With some exceptions, where morphology dictates that the cams are better suited in the reverse direction.

- In cracks/uneven positioning, bear in mind that the ALIEN is not symmetrical. Sometimes check a position and see if by turning 180º it is better adapted to the irregularity.


WHICH ALIEN SHOULD I CHOOSE?

The ALIEN works more effectively the tighter it is when inserted into the rock. (See optimal range).


HOW DO I CHECK THAT THE ALIEN IS CORRECTLY PLACED?

Once the correct point in the rock is chosen, it needs to be inserted as deep as the location and length of the puller will allow. Some strong, sharp tugs should be given in the direction of the load. If there is no slipping and its position remains correct, the ALIEN is in the right place. Always check the rock is in good condition.


WHAT DOES IT MEAN IF THE ALIEN SLIPS?

That the ALIEN, despite acting mechanically, does not have enough friction on the cams and therefore moves from its position.


WHAT DOES IT MEAN WHEN THE ALIEN MOVES?

Due to the movement of the ropes when climbing, the ALIEN moves from its position.


HOW DO I AVOID THE ALIEN MOVING?

Positioning long straps to avoid pulling which is not in the direction of the drop. Trying to hold the ropes on the outside of the cracks so that the ALIEN moves towards the inside.


IN WHICH SITUATIONS CAN THE ALIEN MOVE?

In rock with low porosity (quartz, washed limestone, etc.), or when there is ice or dirt on the rock.


HOW MANY ALIENS DO I NEED?

It depends on the type of climb and the climber’s physical and psychological level. The advantage of the ALIEN is that it is light and there are usually more possible small positions than there are large ones


ON WHICH TYPES OF ROCK CAN THE ALIEN BE USED?

They can be used on all types of rock. Pay more attention to how it is positioned on smoother types of rock.


WHAT IS THE LIFESPAN OF AN ALIEN?

With good maintenance, the metal part has a practically unlimited lifespan. The textile tape has a lifespan of 10 years.


WHAT DOES IT MEAN WHEN THE ALIEN WORKS AS A NUT?

That the ALIEN works with its cams fully open.


WHEN CAN THE ALIEN WORK AS A NUT?

It can only function as a nut in a position where the cams have a sufficient bearing surface and as a progression. Only in sizes from red to yellow. The green contains stoppers but does not reach 5 kN.


WHAT RESISTANCE DOES AN ALIEN HAVE WHEN WORKING AS A NUT?

The yellow, grey and red ALIENS have a resistance of 5 kN.


IN WHICH SITUATIONS WILL THE ALIEN SLIP?

The ALIEN will slip when:

· It has been placed with the cams wide open in rock which is too smooth.

· The rock is too smooth and is very hard (e.g. quartz)

· The surface of the rock is dirty, with dust, mud, ice, etc


HOW DO I AVOID THE ALIEN SLIPPING?

Cleaning where it will be placed or positioning it on rock with a rougher surface.


WHICH IS THE BEST PLACE TO INSERT THE ALIEN?

Rough rock, cracks or holes with perpendicular walls. The ALIEN should be inserted up to its puller.


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