A spring-loaded climbing anchor.
It is lighter and more flexible. Due to the soft aluminium and the geometry of the cams, good friction with the rock is achieved, which in turn provides more security. The first ALIEN was patented in 1986 in Colorado, USA. The current model represents the sixth generation and features 11 improvements compared to its predecessor, the ALIEN REVO. Some of them have the X-Grip texture of the cams or include the passive anchoring functionality in its three largest sizes.
In Sant Quirze de Besora, close to the Pyrenees.
Yes, it is necessary to lubricate it before its first use and during its lifespan. We recommend using WD-40. First, clean the Alien X with compressed air. Then apply oil onto the camshaft, opening and closing it several times. Finally, take off the excess oil with a cloth.
The Alien X’s aluminium is very soft to improve its grip. As the grip increases, the security increases. If the cam has indentations, file down the aluminium that protrudes until its functionality is restored.
With soap and water, then dry with a blow dryer or compressed air. Apply WD-40 immediately afterwards.
With a damp cloth, then dried.
Yes, it can be used in marine environments. The device must be rinsed with fresh water after use, dried immediately and lubricated with WD-40.
Each batch manufactured is tried and tested to comply with the regulations and its functionality.
Away from sunlight, in a cool, dry place. After each use it must be checked and, if necessary, cleaned and greased.
Generally, if the problem is cam rotation, it can be solved by cleaning it and greasing it well. If the problem comes from a broken pin or other issues, please consult our technical service.
Yes, it can be anchored.
- Choose the right location to insert the ALIEN. Clean fissure or hole, with no cracks or weaknesses that could break the rock under load.
- Choose the ALIEN that fits the site best.
- They are directional floating anchors, they work in one direction. Position the ALIEN in the direction of the load it will or could receive.
- Position the ALIEN size that fits tightest to the site. Insert it as far as the handle.
- Check that the cams are well seated and that they work over their entire surface.
- Give a few strong, dry pulls in the direction of the load. If the ALIEN does not slip and remains well seated after the pulls, it is safe to assume that the ALIEN is in place.
- When placing an ALIEN in a horizontal position, the outer cams should be placed on the underside of the ALIEN. With some exceptions, where the morphology of the cams is such that they fit better in the opposite direction.
- When placing an ALIEN in a vertical position with one side of the rock protruding over the other, place the outer cams on the protruding side. With some exceptions, where morphology dictates that the cams are better suited in the reverse direction.
- In cracks/uneven positioning, bear in mind that the ALIEN is not symmetrical. Sometimes check a position and see if by turning 180º it is better adapted to the irregularity.
The ALIEN works more effectively the tighter it is when inserted into the rock. (See optimal range).
Once the correct point in the rock is chosen, it needs to be inserted as deep as the location and length of the puller will allow. Some strong, sharp tugs should be given in the direction of the load. If there is no slipping and its position remains correct, the ALIEN is in the right place. Always check the rock is in good condition.
That the ALIEN, despite acting mechanically, does not have enough friction on the cams and therefore moves from its position.
Due to the movement of the ropes when climbing, the ALIEN moves from its position.
Positioning long straps to avoid pulling which is not in the direction of the drop. Trying to hold the ropes on the outside of the cracks so that the ALIEN moves towards the inside.
In rock with low porosity (quartz, washed limestone, etc.), or when there is ice or dirt on the rock.
It depends on the type of climb and the climber’s physical and psychological level. The advantage of the ALIEN is that it is light and there are usually more possible small positions than there are large ones
They can be used on all types of rock. Pay more attention to how it is positioned on smoother types of rock.
With good maintenance, the metal part has a practically unlimited lifespan. The textile tape has a lifespan of 10 years.
That the ALIEN works with its cams fully open.
It can only function as a nut in a position where the cams have a sufficient bearing surface and as a progression. Only in sizes from red to yellow. The green contains stoppers but does not reach 5 kN.
The yellow, grey and red ALIENS have a resistance of 5 kN.
The ALIEN will slip when:
· It has been placed with the cams wide open in rock which is too smooth.
· The rock is too smooth and is very hard (e.g. quartz)
· The surface of the rock is dirty, with dust, mud, ice, etc
Cleaning where it will be placed or positioning it on rock with a rougher surface.
Rough rock, cracks or holes with perpendicular walls. The ALIEN should be inserted up to its puller.