03 Sep Rebolting your local playground: Les Petites Jorasses
Fixe, together with the collaboration of the guide companies Chamonix Experience and Compagnie des guides de Chamonix are in charge to carry out several reboltings in the Mont Blanc massif.
Powered by Florent Dulac and Martín Elías, the rebolting of the Anouk-rappel at the Petites Jorasses has been possible.
The position of the original lowering stations has not been modified, except for a few meters to improve its comfort when carrying out the maneuvers. It is currently the most used line of lowering to descend from the Petites Jorasses. Back then, the Italian side was used to descend, but since the Anouk route was opened in 1990, this last has been chosen for it.
After more than 30 years in which a multitude of pitches have been bolt in that area, the UIAA and the material manufacturing companies have been able to verify which materials are the most suitable for bolting, which reports each place and type of rock. They have worked to unify criteria and materials, which facilitate the choice of the ideal belay station for each case, such as 316L Stainless Steel for outdoor environments.
Until recently there was no fact on how materials evolved in real environments (outdoor), only in laboratories. We are currently working with materials on which their reactions are well known. To rebolt the Anouk rappel line, D-Belay Stations have been used, where only one of the two fixing points work, leaving the second point as insurance. The components at the fixing points are composed of two glue in bolts with an insertion length of 90mm. The anchor point consists of a very versatile ring with better strength to friction wear. This rings are present on all the attachment points between the Belay Station components thus facilitating the maneuverability when there is more than one person on-site.
The project will continue in a framework of collaboration with the Chamonix Experience guide company. The rebolting work has been funded by Chamex in collaboration with the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. The Leschaux Refuge and the Chamonix City Council have also contributed.
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