10 Mar This is Alien Revolution. History and features
David Waggoner revolutionised climbing using self-protection when he launched the first Alien Cams in 1985 under the CCH (Colorado Custom Hardware) brand. We don’t know if he was really aware of how the game was going to change, but his invention forever changed the tackling of ascents in traditional climbing.
Waggoner’s life revolved around climbing and it was the limitations of the equipment available in the 1980s that led him to invent the first Alien units. He was barely able to make ends meet, often working until midnight in his workshop, where he also slept at the end of the day. Despite the complexity of building the Alien, Waggoner knew nothing about mathematics or engineering, but he honed his invention for traditional climbing until he came up with the final model.
The inventor of the Alien died on 7 October 2009 at the age of 53. Waggoner left a great legacy for the climbing community, a legacy that has survived to this day and is represented by the latest evolution of the Alien, called Revolution (Revo).
In 2011 the Tech Rock group (currently Fixe Climbing) acquired CCH and the brand was simply renamed Alien. The third generation – the Alien Revolution – follows the founding values of the first model designed by Waggoner, including improvements in design and materials.
All Alien units are assembled by hand at the Fixe factory in St Quirze Besora (Barcelona) according to CE and UIAA regulations.
The Alien Revo is lighter, more flexible and stronger than its predecessor, and is a must-have item in the harness of any wall climber. Keeping the spirit of the original model, the Revo uses the same aluminium, which gives the cams an exceptional bite on any type of rock.
In addition to its unique cams, the Revo features a number of notable improvements:
- Redesigned pin geometry to avoid contact with the rock. In addition, the trigger wires are repairable.
- Ergonomic and longer pull for easier recovery and better performance in deep crevices.
- Colour-coded aluminium piece to identify size.
- Slots on the trigger to facilitate removal with a nut tool.
- Extendable sling for lengthening anchor points.
The Alien Revo is available in six sizes and is also sold in six sizes in the hybrid version. The more nostalgic climbers can also take advantage of the reissue of the original model, the Alien Classic.